Where the waters run clear

Allendale, Northumberland A path curves alongside the river to Allendale Town, clambering over thick roots and stones. It's a cool walk on a hot day

Though normally a fast-flowing river, the East Allen has shrunk from its banks. Its voice, through trees, is like a bath filling up behind a closed door. Reaching it through wild garlic, I walk to the centre of the river where the boulders are pale and dry. The water is clear to the stony bottom, not clouded with silt and energy. The river, so low that its still surface reflects the sky, feels different.

A path curves alongside the river to Allendale Town, clambering over thick roots and stones. Shaded by alders, beech and sycamore, it's a cool walk on a hot day, scented by honeysuckle and the currant smell of wild raspberry leaves. A young song thrush hops along in front of me, stopping every now and then to tug at something unseen among the flowering verges of deep pink campion, starry stitchwort, the vintage lace and froth of sweet cicely.