Can Poland wean itself off coal?

Climate experts say the renaissance can be stopped but change must happen now - and the main obstacle is at the top

• Poland's deadly addiction to coal - in pictures

Displays of coal jewellery and coal soap, coal in a glass walkway beneath your feet, coal in the air that you breathe " the Polish hosts of this week's UN climate talks have been anything but subtle in reminding delegates that we still live in a fossil-fuelled world despite the urgent necessity to move to a cleaner path.

The conference centre is near the mineshaft of the colliery museum in Katowice, the heartland of Silesia's vast coal industry. The sponsors include JSW, the EU's largest coking coal producer, and PGE, which runs the world's second-largest fossil-fuel power plant.