Creamy, untreated and in a glass bottle: Britain’s taste for old-fashioned milk

Dairy farmers cash in on a growing trend to replace both homogenisation and plastic with a revival of the traditional ways

"When the milk price crashed five years ago, we were in a bad way," says Bryce Cunningham, a third-generation farmer running Mossgiel farm in Ayrshire. "Fifty, sixty years ago, you could make a living on a dairy farm; now you're expected to just survive. So I thought, 'If we did it the way they did it before, could we survive?'"

The farm sits on the land that Robert Burns farmed in the 1700s. "Farming the land that he worked, could we recreate the milk that he drank?"