The fashion industry echoes colonialism – DfID's scheme will subsidise it | Meg Lewis

Covid-19 has exposed the fragility of supply chains, which rely on the labour of black and brown workers. The deep inequalities won't be fixed by injecting funds at the top

Is the UK governed by parliamentary democracy or big businesses? It is a question that should concern us all, yet it is becoming increasingly hard to differentiate between the two, as the government hands out multimillion-pound contracts to private firms with dubious track records, and ministers revolve between roles at big banks and government. Last week, the line between UK aid and private businesses was called into question, as the Department for International Development (DfID) announced the decision to direct 4.85m of taxpayers' money towards the work of large retailers including M&S, Tesco and Primark.

The DfID funding is intended to support large companies to fix vulnerable supply chains and ensure that people in Britain can continue to buy affordable, high-quality goods from around the world". These aims, along with the fact that UK brands have been entrusted to deliver them, set off alarm bells for labour rights campaigners like myself, who advocate for better working conditions in the global garment industry.