COVID casualties: Hamilton restaurants that were forced to close

Diane Galambos - Contributing Columnist

from on 2020-08-25 11:52 (#57AKP)

Surviving to Stage 3 (reduced capacity dine-in with safety precautions) does not put a restaurant into the safety zone and we must wait to see the full impact of the pandemic on the viability of independent restaurants.

For now, here's a list of casualties and - surprisingly - new initiatives. Each closure represents a longer story and came with heartfelt messages thanking supporters and Hamilton.

The Meanwhile Wine Bar project between Chef/Sommelier Kyle Paton and partners Dahlia Ishak, Ray Turner and Sydney Paris ended in early May. Ishak shared the news that they will be reopening soon (in stages) as Sunny Corner Bar. It will be a sister brand to Salty (Espresso) and will operate as a fun and casual day bar with Ray's food, beers, wines & day drinks."

After 30 years in operation, the mid-May closure of Burlington's Emma's Back Porch and The Water Street Cooker shocked patrons. Owner Craig Kowalchuk says they are hoping the space continue as eateries versus being replaced with condos.

Christine McConville and Sara Bond announced on social media the June closure of Toast Wine Bar, saying It's been a pleasure to be a part of this wonderful community of restaurants and businesses in Hamilton. Here's to all of you and to what comes next."

193 Bench Kitchen had been sister" to the Grimsby location which has continued doing delivery/takeout. In mid-June, owner Steve Bonin announced 193's permanent closure. He says We definitely plan to stick around the Hamilton area through pop-ups and as vendors at events as much as we can."

Early in July, owner Phil Green, announced that Emerald Coffee Co. will pass to new owners. Next in store for Phil is a booth at the Hamilton Antique Mall.

Jamesville Market was one of my first pandemic takeouts. Vittorio Colacitti seemed to have another terrific project underway. He shared the news that both Jamesville Market and Shaolin are closed permanently. Colacitti, with his chef/partner Jonny Segundo, is determined that they are not going to leave Hamilton and want to do something that combines their favourite concepts - market, cafe, Shaolin snacks and Born & Raised pizza/food in a new concept.

Recently converting their children's party room to a delightful tea room, family health is forcing Sprinkles on Top to close Sept. 7. They are hoping a buyer will continue the business.

New Restaurants and Projects

In mid-May, Sookham Plant-Based Cafe began offering takeout and is now open for dining-in. Their menu is inspired by principles of Ayurveda, an ancient Indian system of medicine and wellness." All dishes are vegan and made fresh in-house using organic, locally sourced ingredients.

Mamma Rossa, an Equal Parts Hospitality project, is a ghost kitchen, preparing delivery-only food. Ghost kitchen locations are not always revealed, but here it's Aberdeen Tavern's prep hall creating comforting, classic and high-quality Italian scratch cooking. Why Italian? Says Equal Parts co-founder Jason Cassis Chef Bryson at Aberdeen Tavern has serious Italian roots ... this classic, purebred Italian cuisine is really resonating with people, so much so that we might just give it a brick and mortar home at some point."

Jeff Crumb of Bread Bar was inspired by friend (and icon) Chef Sean Brock's fast food Joyland" in Nashville to launch JC's Famous Chicken. Crumb was quick to correct me that the project took flight not despite COVID-19 but because of COVID-19 and the imperative of being creative in order to survive. Family contributed creative juices - waffle fries are named for son Kane and a burger is named for son Finn. Crumb is seeking a bricks and mortar site where the concept can continue to evolve.

Coming soon: Pane Fresco + NaRoma. Mario Spina's NaRoma did not survive the 2019 Locke Street construction, but Mario and his terrific pizza did, running out of Scoly's Hometown Market. At the end of July, Spina announced a new chapter as he circles back to connect with a past employer; Pane Fresco in Burlington. The PF brand will be creatively combined with Spina's in a new menu.

Prepping your Wiggles Comfort Chicken is Professor Wiggles a.k.a. Chef Jason Wigglesworth at Odds Bar. Owner Matt Kershaw explains his own infatuation with rotisserie chicken inspired this project. While we were trying to figure out how to reopen Odds ... we realized that Odds' current food didn't lend itself to takeout. Some wise person said why not finally try out my chicken concept." Tons of experimentation resulted in what they feel is the most delicious chicken ever with a name that is fun and light and memorable in these dark days."

If you need cheering up, chat with That's My Jam's upbeat team of AnnMari Massihi and Nikoo Sharifi opening a fruit fusion gourmet sandwich shop in an artsy hip hop scene." I'm not sure what that means but am looking forward to how fruit that is not masked by high doses of sugar will feature in sandwiches, bowls, snacks and beverages. With experience in hospitality, this longtime Hamilton family is thrilled to join its food scene.

Murray's Farm and Butcher Shoppe, featured in our story about Ottawa Street, has expanded into the space next door with new stock that you'll find hard to resist - think beyond meat - think ice cream and hot sauces and even flowers. Offerings include Caplansky's Mustard. Caplansky shared that he was born in Hamilton so we can now lay claim to him.

There's a lot of restaurant news - more in a few weeks.

Diane Galambos is a food writer who shares stories and recipes at her blog kitchenbliss.ca. Follow her on Instagram https://instagram.com/kitchenblissca

JC's Famous Chicken

14 James St. N., Hamilton

jcsfamous.ca/

instagram.com/jcsfamouschicken/

Mamma Rossa

mammarossa.ca/

instagram.com/mammarossahamont/

Murrays' Farm & Butcher Shoppe

182 Ottawa St. N., Hamilton

905-393-1380

instagram.com/murraysfarm/

NaRoma + Pane Fresco