Keen as mustard: 17 ways with the world’s best condiment – from barbecued ribs to deep-fried prawns

It's far more versatile than you think - it can transform potatoes, rolls and even a cocktail into something truly special

I used to think you could gauge a nation's respect for mustard by considering which varieties were made available in the little packets on cafe tables. I later decided that all mustards have their charms, even that oddly dark one that passes for French mustard outside France. I also maintain a fondness for super-yellow American. It is not my favourite, but sometimes nothing else will do. The only bad mustard countries, I think, are the ones where you have to ask for it.

There are as many recipes for mustard as there are variations of the stuff. I am going to include just one, for homemade dijon mustard, so you can get your head around what a thankless pain in the backside it is. Everyone should try making mustard once - and only once. Here is a video showing exactly how proper mustard should be made - in a giant factory by machines. Should you get another urge to produce mustard from scratch, watch this.