The restaurant putting workers in charge – and inequality on the chopping block

A rotating menu of Filipino, Moroccan, and Mexican cuisine underpins an ambition to uplift the food industry labor structure

At Understory, a new restaurant in Oakland, diners can sample Kare Kare empanadas stuffed with peanut braised beef stew and Kefta sliders made with spiced lamb, all while sipping on a passion fruit margarita.

But alongside its rotating menu of Filipino, Moroccan, and Mexican cuisine, Understory is also hoping to serve up a side of change.