PinToh in Burlington creatively elevates Thai food
In case you didn't notice, this is the first time I'm writing about a Thai restaurant. I love food adventures but admittedly had a negative Thai dining experience in Vancouver in the last century that left me with an avoid" versus approach" attitude. Not very grown-up but there you have it.
A while back, a crack appeared in that wall. I ate Massaman Curry at Sabai Sabai, the Toronto restaurant linked to celebrated Chef Nuit Regular. It put me over the moon and since then I have been collecting recipes that sort of match her listed ingredients of braised beef, tamarind sauce, star anise, cloves, peanut, potato, shrimp paste, and coconut cream. Have I attempted making this yet? No.
As such, this became central to my Thai dining strategy. Many local restaurants were recommended but I chose one that had Massaman Curry on the menu - PinToh Cuisine. On the Lakeshore in Burlington, they just celebrated the five-year anniversary of rebranding from My Thai to PinToh - a reference to the Thai enamel tiffin-type food carriers - part of their brand and something they used to sell pre-pandemic.
Manager Mary Prum explained that the re-branding was partly linked to the team being joined by a talented new chef - Chutichai Singhakraipan - fondly referred to as Chef Keng. He began learning his craft at his mother's side, but also studied at the renowned Blue Elephant cooking school in Phuket. Years of cooking, including a stint in Uganda, put him on a pathway that was leading to Australia until fate intervened and brought him to Canada.
Like all cuisines, centuries-old trade influences impacted Thai food bringing, for example, the introduction of chili pepper from the Americas. Modern regional differences are noteworthy, such as the liberal use of coconut milk in Southern Thailand.
When ordering Thai food, I prefer menus that use Thai terminology. If I order Lemon Prawn Soup" I'd like to know that I have eaten the classic Tom-Yam-Goong" - soup with shrimp, flavoured with chili and lemongrass. Fortunately, PinToh takes care to help diners learn Thai terminology when applicable.
Our first appetizer was the Satay - skewered chicken that had been marinated in coconut curry, served with peanut sauce and cucumber slaw. The Thai Fresh Rolls were rice-paper-wrapped veggies - carrots, cucumber, bean sprouts, cilantro and perhaps a bit too much lettuce - with a choice of peanut or spicy mint sauce. We were off to a good start.
Coconut Soup (Tom Kha Gai) introduced me to galangal root which comes from the ginger/turmeric family - in this case grated into the soup to deliver a slightly citrusy flavour. Combined with mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, onions and chicken - made creamy with coconut milk - this was a terrific dish.
I have not always been impressed by Pad Thai, but took a chance on Chef Keng's Pad Thai" - described as our head chef's take on your favourite noodle dish - rice noodles, chicken, shrimp, tofu, eggs, bean sprouts, onions, tamarind sauce, coconut milk and fried shallots served with peanuts, pickled radish, chives and dried chilies." You are left begging for the chef's take" on any dish.
And then there was the Massaman Curry. The delicious flavour profile comes from a blend of spices that entered the country once spice trading began. Available mainly to those of high status, the spices created a dish enjoyed at first only by the royal court. The first written record of the recipe was in 1889. The version made by PinToh was a delicious mild curry dish featuring coconut milk, coconut sugar, sweet potatoes and cashews with braised beef. I'll be back for more of that!
If there's Mango Salad on a menu, chances are I cannot resist. In local grocery stores, it's mango season right now. If you're imagining slices of juicy, fresh fruit in a sweet salad, think again. The salad description specifies green mango" and that's the preference in Southeast Asia. Chef Keng explains that a mango salad should be a bit crunchy and not too sweet, preferring a side dish that is more a savoury than a dessert. The salad, which mixes semi-ripe sliced mangoes with cilantro, onions, red peppers, peanuts and palm sugar dressing was very flavourful.
Chef Keng says cooking is in his blood and he aims to employ his creativity to elevate Thai cuisine using the finest authentic ingredients. Manager Prum says they look forward to resuming their popular pre-pandemic supper clubs and cooking classes. Their Instagram account has several story highlights (circles under their profile) that share much about the restaurant and what it offers.
Diane Galambos is a food writer who shares stories and recipes at her blog kitchenbliss.ca. Follow her on Instagram https://instagram.com/kitchenblissca
PinToh Cuisine
399 Elizabeth St., Burlington
905-631-8373
Hours: Tuesday to Thursday 3 p.m.to 8:30 p.m.; Friday to Saturday 12:30 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Sunday 12:30 p.m. to 8 p.m.
What I paid: Chicken Satay $10; Thai Fresh Rolls $8; Massaman Curry with Beef $22; Chef Keng's Pad Thai $20; Coconut Soup with Chicken $8; Mango Salad $10
Wheelchair access: Yes