Dining is magical in this vineyard garden at Good Earth Food and Wine Co.
If you're itching for an outing, it's hard to beat Good Earth Food and Wine Co. - always described with words such as magical, oasis, hideaway, wonderland.
This, in part, refers to the setting. The approach passes nondescript houses and nothing prepares you for what happens after you turn into the gravel laneway. You are transported to a space surrounded by gardens, orchards and a vineyard. You'll want to return often - and that will have as much to do with the food and hospitality as the setting.
The property began as the family farm of the Novaks, immigrants from Eastern Europe. The budding Queen's Park career of daughter Nicolette was interrupted by the sudden death of her father. Returning to Beamsville, she kept calm and carried on despite her youth and gender. Novak says the wonderful thing about agriculture is that it's not gender-based. Most farming operations are farming families where the woman contributes as much as the man."
Over time, the 220-acre fruit farm was pared down to a more manageable 55 acres. Food remained central, running markets, hosting school field trips and catering. Niagara was in its infancy and Novak helped showcase the exciting developments while proving herself to be an innovator.
A visit to a cooking school in Holland inspired Novak to run her first cooking class in 1998 from her wee on-site house. She led the trend of running classes for home cooks, taking down the wall between a restaurant dining room and the kitchen.
I loved the magic that would happen around that island where you brought all these people together who, in the course of three hours, came as strangers and left as friends." Classes, featuring local chefs, were soon running in a separate building. Planting grapes followed in 2008 and the Bistro in 2010.
Describing herself as a fatalist, Novak says the next chapter has been looming for a while. With no siblings or children, Good Earth - which she unreservedly describes as her baby - needed a new mom." Novak began to look and plan for an exit that included child protection."
Nicolette Succession" is a tall order. How to replace someone who is welcoming, caring, down-to-earth, witty and, it must be said, forthright with her candid views? She says she considered everyone a guest in her home and she knew what should not be a hospitality secret; you ought to be home when people visit. She rarely stepped away from being present, interacting warmly with all visitors.
Already on board, and taking over as the new face of Good Earth after Labour Day is chef Christine Flynn. With East Coast roots, she lived in many cities before seeking out the Niagara Peninsula as the place to raise her two young daughters.
A satirical social media spoof some years ago helped bring deserved attention to her impressive portfolio, condensed in the transition announcement on Instagram. Christine comes to the position with an impressive arsenal of talent, energy, creativity and experience. Thirsty for knowledge and adventure Christine has worked as a chef in top restaurants in Canada, the U.S. and France... Christine's writing and photography have appeared in Wired, The London Times and Bon Appetite. She has a strong background in event management having run the culinary department of the Nantucket Wine Festival... (and) has appeared on the Food Network, on Chopped Canada, Fire Masters and as a guest judge on Top Chef."
Once back in Canada, Flynn became (and remains) a partner in iQ Food Co. serving delicious nutrient-dense" foods in Toronto. Her commitment to healthy eating is captured in her book (co-written with Emma Knight, founder of Greenhouse Juice Co.) called how to eat with one hand." It achieves a commendable balance between doable recipes and helpful motherhood stories.
Good Earth's appeal is also food, enjoyed under the wisteria-covered pergola, or on the sheltered patio or in the charming indoor space. Executive Chef Andrew Thorne, with experience in some of the area's finest kitchens, never disappoints.
We began with Chicken Liver Parfait served with chilies, pickles, radishes and charred bread. This dish introduced me to Mostarda - a fruity Italian condiment made, in this case, with Good Earth peaches. It was a bowl-licking hit.
The Ocean Sockeye Salmon was perfectly seasoned and plated atop an appealing mix of local corn, summer squash, peas, and roasted new potatoes, embellished with corn sauce. Sublime.
My dining partner declared the brined Pork Chop flawless. Peaches are in season and they appeared in the vinaigrette for the peach, apricot and blue cheese salad, topped with shoelace potatoes.
For dessert, we shared Peaches & Cream - sponge cake, balsamic, and basil - a combo that might seem odd but worked well. We enjoyed Betty's Blend wine, named after Nicolette's elegant mother, dubbed the Supreme Ambassador. All in all? Magical.
Flynn, too, uses this word. What's magical about Good Earth is that so many people who have different stories feel a sense of connection to it. I came here for lunch eight years ago and was just taken in... I felt like I belonged, and what's magical about Good Earth is that everyone feels that way... I want very much to take care of the place and the amazing team that runs it but also to be, for others, the kind of person Nico has been for me." That will include inspiring others, nurturing a culinary hub, continuing cooking classes/events with guest chefs.
What's next for Novak? She plans to stay on the peninsula, find her forever home and reconnect with friends and creative pastimes, while continuing to contribute to the community. Nicolette is a great storyteller. I want her to write a book.
What I really will miss," she says, are the people," the staff, chefs and patrons. She describes Christine as energetic, bright and engaging and admires her chutzpah. I know she'll do really well."
Diane Galambos is a food writer who shares stories and recipes at her blog kitchenbliss.ca. Follow her on Instagram https://instagram.com/kitchenblissca
The Good Earth Food & Wine Co.
Location & information
4556 Lincoln Ave., Beamsville
905-563-6333
goodearthfoodandwine.com
instagram.com/goodearthniagara
Hours
Sunday, Monday, Thursday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Closed Tuesdays & Wednesdays
Friday, Saturday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
What I paid
Chicken Liver Parfait $16; Salmon $27; Pork Chop $26; Peaches and Cream $14; Betty's Blend Wine (glass) $12
Wheelchair access
Yes