How L’Enclume’s Michelin win is taking Cumbria to the top of the foodie table

With more stars that any other county, the land of gravy and chips is now held up as a rival to Paris and San Sebastian

When Simon Rogan and his family moved to Cumbria in 2002, the Lake District was famed for many reasons but food was not top of the menu. Visitors came in droves for the hills, rather than the haute cuisine.

Twenty years later their feted village restaurant, L'Enclume, is at the centre of a mind-blowing" culinary renaissance that has led some diners to compare Cumbria to international foodie havens such as Paris, San Sebastian and Copenhagen.