Menu price increases, dropped dishes and a pinch of creativity. How Hamilton restaurants are coping with climbing food costs

Eight months ago, an order of the steak frites would put you back about $24 at the French.

Now, the dish - considered by some to be the national fare of Belgium - costs around $30 a plate at the King William Street restaurant.

That kind of a rise in a menu item would typically take three or four years," said John Forcier, director of food operations for Equal Parts Hospitality, which owns the bistro. We went through every possible way we could to keep the cost under control and we still had to raise the price."

Mushrooming menu prices aren't the only changes diners are seeing as Hamilton restaurants and hospitality groups cope with skyrocketing food costs.

Some dishes have disappeared altogether at certain eateries, while dinner plates at weddings and corporate events have seen their portions entirely redesigned.

At Ye Olde Squire, several seafood dishes as well as cream-based soups have been removed from their menus due to their sheer cost," said operating partner Tim Myles.

Those exorbitant items have included lobster rolls, clams, mussels and some dishes that heavily rely on buttermilk, sour cream and yogurt.

The price of food has dictated everything," said Myles.

Between this February and last, the price of butter has increased by nearly 30 cents, according to Statistics Canada. Milk went up by more than 40 cents; prime rib jumped nearly $7; and edible fats and oils (minus margarine) - a staple in many food establishments - rose by more than a dollar.

To claw back on costs while still preserving quality, restaurateurs have also been forced to get creative," said PJ Mercanti, CEO of Hamilton-based food service and hospitality company Carmen's Group.

Mercanti said in the realm of event catering, they've managed to scale back portions of their more costly proteins, while supplementing with additional starches or vegetables.

They're also working toward getting more intentional" about portion sizes when it comes to their second meat courses and midnight buffets at large weddings in order to minimize waste.

And when it comes to more high-ticket proteins, they've had to start offering them at market price" to ensure they have the flexibility to still provide them," added Mercanti.

At Equal Parts, Forcier said they've begun butchering their own steaks, as well as bringing in larger pieces of food that are then broken down in-house in order to defray food costs.

I think it's been wonderful from a culinary standpoint," said Forcier. But it has increased our labour costs quite a bit, so it's a bit of a trade-off."

And at Ye Olde Squire, Myles said they've started to think more critically about what products they bring in, ensuring it can be used in more than just one specific recipe.

Previously, for fresh greens, they used to carry romaine, mixed greens and spinach. But now, they've opted to make their own universal blend" that can be used on anything from a burger to a salad.

When you realize the sheer cost, you have to minimize waste," said Myles, noting that heads of lettuce have at some points ballooned to $7 a piece. It's definitely been a learning curve."

But the swelling of food costs isn't the only factor guiding menu changes.

Mercanti said the labour shortage has caused the company to temporarily remove a handful of menu items that are considered more labour intensive" due to their required preparation.

Those dishes include a variety of seafood pasta dishes, as well as their beloved" Stromboli - a type of turnover that's usually filled with various Italian cheeses, Italian cold cuts and sometimes vegetables.

But there is still hope that the dishes will make a return, noted Mercanti, as they see a slow return" for workers in the industry.

It's encouraging," he said. We're hopeful that we'll be able to bring those items back."

Myles noted that issues with the supply chain throughout the pandemic have also impacted their menus and their ability to plan ahead. Shortages have spanned from all the way from produce and meat to spices and takeout containers.

You're constantly evolving your menu," Myles said, adding that it also comes with a cost. It's been a roller-coaster."

But even in the wake of rising food costs, menus reminiscent of pre-COVID times are making a return for some restaurants, said Forcier.

He believes that's due to a lack of pandemic-era capacity limits and a hunger to get together and celebrate special occasions over a meal at a restaurant.

We feel that the people who are coming out now are coming out for a reason and they seem to be enjoying their dining experience even more," said Forcier. It's been nice to see a focus on the experience again."

Fallon Hewitt is a reporter at The Spectator. fhewitt@thespec.com