Eating meat isn’t a crime against the planet – if it’s done right | Thomasina Miers

George Monbiot criticised chefs and foodies' like me for focusing on regenerative grazing. But alternative, lab-grown foods, could have terrible consequences

I have huge admiration for George Monbiot, a columnist of this newspaper. His work has highlighted the urgent need to reduce our CO2 emissions and switch to greener energy. He has also shown intensive farming's role in the dramatic levels of species decline and biodiversity loss. Much of what he writes I wholeheartedly agree with - but when it comes to the solutions we need to change our farming and food systems, we have radically different takes.

It is indisputable that the farming revolution" of the 1950s, with its widespread use of ammonia fertilisers and herbicides, pesticides and fungicides, has waged war on nature. These intensive, monocultural ways of producing food are not only contaminating our land and waterways, but are heating up our planet and contributing to a crisis in human health (more people die of diet-related disease globally than smoking, according to a study published in the Lancet). The animals in factory farms don't have a great time either. The decline of insect life is incredibly worrying: without the earthworm, beetle and bee, life as we know it could cease. Topsoils, which we use to grow 95% of the world's food, are depleting at an astonishing rate. We need to change the way we eat and produce food, and we need to do it quickly.

Thomasina Miers is a cook, writer and restaurateur

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