So long, and thanks for the memories
Earlier this summer I visited Paris - Paris, Ontario. Our first stop was the utterly charming Dog Eared Cafe and Bookstore. The owners are friendly and happy to chat. Jeanette Janzen-Jones shared that their move from Toronto to Paris was a pandemic decision - to return to their small town roots; to marry their love of art and baking, books and coffee."
I've lost count of how many stories I have heard of people making life-changing decisions during the upheaval - and frequent lockdown time - of COVID.
For me, the pandemic turned out to be a busy time. The initial massive shutdown made us wonder if there was any point to a restaurant column, but it turned out there were many stories about hospitality issues and creative pivots aimed at survival.
My own downtime" came recently, linked to knee surgery recovery. I thought I'd be back to dining and writing quickly but the healing journey is taking longer. The break from routine gave me time to decide that after four years of telling stories about dining experiences it was time to step away and make room for a new voice and new views.
What did I bring to the role? A fairly respectable track record for dining out in Canada and abroad, plus blogging about all the blissful hours spent in my kitchen. I approached my role not as an expert, but as a curious diner with a passion for learning. I explored many cuisines that deserved more of my attention, often becoming lost in related reading and research. In most cases, the research included post-dining chats with chefs and owners who enthusiastically shared fascinating and informative stories.
I have often stressed that I describe myself as a restaurant reviewer - never a critic. In recent years, much has been written about the death of the food critic role and many North American newspapers no longer employ someone to be a critic." There was a time when the role was full-time and someone like Ruth Reichl, writing for the Los Angeles Times and The New York Times, was required to dine at a restaurant three times before writing her story. She aimed for anonymity while dining, sometimes even arriving disguised. (Read her Garlic and Sapphires" novel for those stories.) Like Reichl - and unlike some social media influencers - I paid for meals and can think of only one time when my host guessed who I was.
Aiming to tell you interesting and upbeat stories, my dining planning took me mostly to places that seemed promising. In four years, only twice did I visit a restaurant that I chose not to write about, where every single moment of the visit had gone belly up. You might think I should have warned you about such places but both are still open, thriving, with many fans. Other diners' experiences may not be the same as mine.
There were some funny stories I never shared. Dining off the clock" I might order something light - a main, no appetizer or dessert - but to come up with an informative story my dining strategy was to thoughtfully order a fair bit from the menu. One restaurant told me afterwards that the chef had begun to chat with his wife about the amount of food these two women were ordering and they wondered if we were planning to do a runner. In another restaurant, I was keen on trying an unusual dessert. The server looked me square in the eye and said he couldn't recommend that. I tried it nonetheless and it was delish.
An important lesson I learned was to return food to the kitchen if merited. I'd never done that before and on the occasion in question I hesitated largely because I'd soon have to tell the restaurant I was doing a review and did not want to seem like a prima donna. If the food is inedible, return it to the kitchen. A professional team will handle this with style.
My stories focused on many different cuisines, plus chef profiles, cookbooks and food industry issues. About 15 restaurants I reviewed have closed permanently while others have evolved - or as they now say pivoted." My more than 200 articles can still be found on The Spectator's website.
You might wonder if I have favourite restaurants and I do, but they are too many to list. I'm sharing photos of some memorable food. Recognize anything?
I appreciate all who read my efforts to inspire and inform, with special thanks to readers who became email pals. I extend best wishes to all local eateries - and regrets to those I intended to visit, but now won't review. I thank the ever-supportive Hamilton Spectator editorial team and food writing colleagues from whom I learned much. Finally, thanks to my dining partners - who were often told what to choose from the menu.
I grew fond of many restaurant owners and regret that, because of time constraints, I was not able to revisit as often as I wished. That will change now. In my Meet Diane" column I mentioned that I was once a member of The Spectator's Juniour Press Club. Here's Cub Reporter Diane signing off. I'll remain a freelance eater, writing occasionally.
P.S. In Paris enjoy the Dog Eared Cafe and Bookstore and a meal at Edit Restaurant (run by Hamilton's Other Bird).
Diane Galambos is a food writer who shares stories and recipes at her blog kitchenbliss.ca. Follow her on Instagram https://instagram.com/kitchenblissca
THE RESTAURANTS
Dog Eared Cafe
121 Grand River St. N., Paris
Edit. Restaurant
106 Grand River St. N., Paris
Muck Rack for Journalists