Issey Miyake and Off White celebrate late founders at Paris fashion week

Parentless labels reveal collections, with Miyake's fluid inventions repurposed for 2023

What happens to a fashion house after its founder dies? If you're Issey Miyake and Off White, two labels made parentless in the past 12 months, you carry on making collections in their name while peering through the sartorial looking glass as you figure out what to do next.

Closing was never an option for Issey Miyake. The first Japanese designer to crack Paris fashion week, Miyake's name was already a byword for cutting-edge style and Steve Jobs polo-necks when he died in August aged 84. Miyake had not designed at his label since 2020 (Satoshi Kondo is the current creative director) but his fingerprints have always been all over the label's collections.