Noma is closing. Are we seeing the death of ‘fine dining’? | Jessa Crispin

Some of the world's most famed restaurants face business problems or accusations of abuse and deception. What next?

Noma is widely considered the best restaurant in the world - not only for the quality of its food, but the standard it created for fine dining. It brought a new era of excellent, locally focused cuisine, helping to break the stranglehold French food had on the cultural imagination when it came to gourmet greatness. Noma trained some of the finest chefs of a generation, spreading its ideas and values far and wide like fungal spores caught on the wind.

For 20 years it dominated and defined the restaurant scene, but soon it will be no more. Although its brand may live on in other ways, Noma recently announced that it will close its titular restaurant at the end of 2024.

Jessa Crispin is a Guardian US columnist