From birch-tree juice to Christmas bread, our food tells the story of who we are | Paula Erizanu

My mother travelled Moldova to save recipes in danger of dying out - and captured the tale of our rich and turbulent past

When my country finally makes it into the EU, it will be one of the smallest members of the club - and one whose national identity is strong, shaped by the upheavals of its history. A former Soviet republic, Moldova has been independent since 1991, but we are still living in Russia's menacing shadow, especially since the invasion of Ukraine in 2022.

To figure out where Moldova's national resilience resides, you could do worse than sit down over Christmas with a bowl of hearty red borscht with pork belly and sauerkraut (in the north) or sparrow fricassee (a specialty of the south) and a plate of domc (festive brioche with walnut) or plachie (rice pudding) for dessert.