Tangy kimchi, bad ice-cream and good eggs: my tests for the food filter have changed how I shop

Tasting the good and the bad for the Filter; summer spritzes for aperitivo hour; and the perfect fans for keeping cool

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My favourite scene in the film Ratatouille is when Remy the rat tastes strawberries and cheese. Closing his eyes, he takes a bite ... and it's fireworks. Like Remy, I'm a food lover: I'm a chef and recipe developer, writer and campaigner for a better food system, and have worked on farms and in kitchens, from River Cottage to Noma, for 25 years.

Recently, I've been testing different supermarket staples for the food filter. Tasting 10 of each, I've rated everything from kimchi (as an avid fermenter, my favourite so far) to mayonnaise - 70 products in all. Vanilla ice-cream (coming up next week) was my least favourite: at least 50% of it was ultra-processed rubbish not even worthy of the name. It gave me stomach ache.

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