He once worked at the world’s best restaurant. Now he wants to make US school food better

An alum of Noma in Copenhagen, Dan Giusti is on a mission to transform institutional cooking - but getting fellow chefs to buy in hasn't been easy

At the Dream Mott Haven charter school this summer, more than a hundred food-service professionals lined up in the cafeteria to enjoy a school lunch prepared by the culinary team from Brigaid.

Some attendees giggled like schoolchildren as they carried fire-engine-red trays filled with plates of scratch-made pernil, fried plantains and arroz con gandules through the lunchroom, taking seats at the long cafeteria tables and commiserating with strangers like the first day of school. A kale caesar side salad and diced fresh watermelon ensured that the meal met US Department of Agriculture nutrition guidelines; according to a panel discussion before lunch, it also met strict budgetary guidelines - with ingredients totaling a mere $2.71 per meal.