There's plenty more fish in the sea than tuna and salmon | Everlasting Meals

Little fish and shellfish have as much potential for a delicious dish as the overfished favourites

There are plenty of fish in the sea as good at sharpening our minds and oiling our bones as tuna and salmon. They are not big fish, but small fish and shellfish and fish whose silvery little bodies are unfamiliar - at least in the US - but delicious, or fish whose hard shells intimidate, but keep safe the sweetest flesh. There are plenty of freckly mackerel, meaty little sardines, delicately saline squid, and flinty-shelled clams and oysters. Most of these fish are more affordable than environmentally troubling tuna and salmon.

We should approach this wide variety of smaller fish with the inclusiveness of cultures that rely on fish as staple. Their diets are not made up of one kind of fish, cooked one way, but all the fish the deeps can offer, all cooked in different ways.