Cafe with a view – and a mugful of memories

Horton-in-Ribblesdale, Yorkshire Dales As a boy I first scaled this lion couchant by scrambling up the gritstone box of its nose and grabbing handfuls of its mane, namely long, wiry grasses

Three Peakers and Pennine Wayers refresh themselves with beans on toast and capacious mugs of Yorkshire tea as they recount their endeavours. The cafe in Horton-in-Ribblesdale, like the adjacent house I grew up in, is at the end of a terrace with a grandstand view of Penyghent, 694m (2,277ft ), above. As a boy I first scaled this lion couchant by scrambling up the gritstone box of its nose and grabbing handfuls of its mane, namely long, wiry grasses. At 16 I traversed all Three Peaks, these 24 miles including the Table Mountain look-alike Ingleborough (2,372ft/723m) and Yorkshire's Everest, Whernside (2,415ft 736m).

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