Lost to the ferocious ocean

Eshaness, Shetland A single raven appears from the gloom and hangs overhead, watching with naked curiosity

We abandon the car at Eshaness, outside the lighthouse swinging its torch in an endless, unstoppable arc, and head north along the cliffs.

Only a few months ago, the crags were crowded with life: tens of thousands of seabirds - fulmars, gannets, arctic skuas and the aggressive bonxies, as they call great skuas locally, that will divebomb anyone who comes near their nests - but now they are long gone, all except the hardiest fulmars gone south for the winter.

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