Top Guatemalan beauty spot mired in indigenous rights conflict

Dispute over major tourist attraction and conservation area is tearing local communities apart

"There's, like, 50 people on the way up, so take your photos," said a young American man, shirtless, his face daubed with paint, as he came striding through the forest towards the look-out. The view was spectacular: lush tropical foliage clinging to the sheer rock-face of a canyon plunging several 100 feet to a series of stunning turquoisey pools where tourists could be spotted swimming.

This was Semuc Champey, a must-visit on the Central American backpacker circuit and increasingly one of Guatemala's most well-known tourist destinations. "Hidden", "unique" and "natural paradise" are all thrown around to describe it. Lonely Planet calls Semuc "arguably the loveliest spot in the country", while CNN dubbed the River Cahabon, which flows under the pools, the world's "third best river for travellers" after the Amazon and Zambezi.