Rock, water, sky and solitude in Snowdonia

Talsarnau, Gwynedd Not another person was visible in this elemental landscape. But there was activity on the waters of Llyn y Dywarchen

Beyond the water-lily lake of Llyn Tecwyn Isaf, in Snowdonia national park, the farm road zigzags steeply to Caerwych, from whence a splashy path slips round beneath Y Gyrn to climb into a region of marshy flats where bog asphodel and creeping spearwort flower. Recent waymarking lures you on through terrain problematical in mist to the bronze age trackway.

A short, gentle, ascent leads to Bryn Cader Faner's corona of outward-pointing rocks atop a grassy bluff. It's one of the most beautiful bronze age monuments in Britain.