Wild hing makes India’s heart sing as favourite spice is home-grown at last

Asafoetida is a mainstay of the country's cuisine, but only now are the first saplings being planted on Indian soil

What's in a name? Plenty, when it comes to asafoetida or devil's dung". The evil-smelling spice is a stink bomb that unquestionably lives up to its moniker. Inhalation at five paces can make someone with a blocked nose stagger back. It has to be stored away from other spices to prevent it overwhelming them. Just a smidgen can cure indigestion. Yet it is a staple in Indian cuisine, adding a certain subtle aroma, pungency and flavour. For the Jain community, whose religion forbids the use of onion and garlic, hing", as it is called in India, is a lifesaver for the flavour it adds. Hing is India's answer to Japan's umami.

Yet, until now, no one in India has grown the spice.