Explore the wonderful authentic Mexican cuisine at Maria’s Tortas Jalisco
At a local takeout, I always order the same thing. I've placed phone orders to eateries using a system that - recognizing the phone number - asks Do you want the same order as last time?" Routines, often comforting, can be limiting.
At Maria's Tortas Jalisco, there had been an additional rationale for routine. I was baffled by some items on the chalkboard menu, so I ordered tacos. They were really good so why not get them again and again? But, I knew I was missing out.
I had a plan that I would drop by when the place was not busy (as if) and ask them to explain everything. COVID-19 interfered with that - but oddly provided the solution.
Maria's had set up an e-commerce website that explained every menu item. Wonderful food explorations ensued, followed by a great chat with Maria's daughter, Helen Tafolla.
Maria Ojeda was born in Jalisco - a Mexican state known for music, tequila and iconic dishes such as Birria. Her journey to California (where her son and two daughters were born), then to Canada is so interesting I hope she writes a book. In Toronto in the '90s, Ojeda ran the Taco Loco stand in Kensington Mall where the lineups were always long. That motivated her to open a full-service restaurant which she eventually sold. Her next life chapter brought her to Hamilton where she was joined by her two daughters, Helen Tafolla and Angelina Boce. The three of them and their children are currently a tight isolation bubble" with no other staff helping them with the shop, which opened in Stoney Creek in 2017.
Ojeda had been an accomplished singer before cooking became the centre of her life. Her goal has been to share the authentic cuisine of Jalisco, somewhat resisting distortions propagated by Mexican food chains and even Mexican resorts catering to international visitors. There have been exceptions. There are no burritos where she is from, but so many patrons asked for them, they are now on the menu.
One traditional Jaliscan dish that has received a lot of press recently is birria. I was intrigued that Ojeda's menu listed her as the Queen of Birria." Marinated meat braised in a broth is eaten as a stew/soup or the meat can be added to tacos leaving the broth as a dipping sauce. I ordered the Beef Birria Quesadillas with Consomme (Quesatacos) - three beef birria quesadillas (with corn tortillas) grilled with Oaxaca cheese are served with the broth. For the stew/soup experience order the Birria De Chivo which translates to Goat Meat Stew - the traditional meat used in this dish. This dish with complex flavours is spicy.
Ojeda has many soups in her repertoire, but a staple on the menu is Sopa Azteca (tortilla soup). You can add chicken to the tomato-based soup which comes with copious garnishes adding flavour and texture - an onion/cilantro mix, and cheese. Cream and avocado balance the mild heat, leaving an enjoyable mouth-warmth.
A big fan of corn, I couldn't resist the Esquites - a traditional Mexican street food. Charred corn kernels are dressed with lime juice, mayo, Cotija cheese and Mexican seasoning. This will now be on my regular takeout list.
Tortas" featured in the eatery's name are classic Mexican sandwiches made on a French-style bun that is buttered and grilled with a layer of cheese. I ordered the Tortas Jalisco (with carnitas/pork). Added to that were refried beans and fresh toppings - guacamole, mayo, pico de gallo (salsa), lettuce, onion/cilantro and jalapenos if you like heat.
Tostadas are so popular in Mexico and Latin America that they appear in various forms. At Maria's, it's a crispy tortilla with a layer of refried beans topped with lettuce, pico de gallo, onions, cilantro, Cotija cheese, and cream.
Every single thing was delicious, but Chicken Quesadilla will be another new favourite. Perfected at Maria's, fresh tortillas are filled with cheese and (in this case) chicken, grilled and served with lettuce, pico de gallo, Cotija cheese on the side. Note that these are not the same as the mini quesadillas that come with the Birria.
There's more temptation on the menu, but I concluded with the Chimichanga Fried Burrito. Tafolla explains that this is more an Americanized vs. authentic Mexican dish, but you'll come back for the lightly fried tortilla filled with refried beans, Mexican rice, cheese and your choice of filling. The salsa toppings are all made in-house and come in varying levels of spicy/heat.
Not to disappoint, there are desserts such as Churros and Tres Leches Cake, but I opted for Flautines - an Ojeda creation. A crispy flour tortilla filled with dulce de leche (caramel) and cheese is deep-fried and sprinkled with cinnamon sugar. A winner in my books!
More than once, Tafolla stressed on behalf of her family that they are honestly, humbly grateful" for the support of their patrons and hate to disappoint them. They ask only for understanding that in their wee shop they know the precise limits of what they can competently prepare each hour, so pre-ordering well in advance is advised.
Diane Galambos is a food writer who shares stories and recipes at her blog kitchenbliss.ca. Follow her on Instagram https://instagram.com/kitchenblissca
Maria's Tortas Jalisco
432 Hamilton Regional Rd. 8, Stoney Creek
905-662-7773
instagram.com/mariastortasjalisco/
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday noon to 7 p.m.; Sunday to Monday closed
What I paid: Sopa Azteca $10.50; Esquites $6.95; Tortas Jalisco Carnitas $11.95; Tostadas $7.50; Beef Birria Quesadilla $16.95; Chicken Quesadillas $11.50; Chimichanga Fried Burrito $12.50; Flautine $7.75
Wheelchair access: No