Welsh caviar: should we all start eating laver?

Protein-rich seaweed has dropped off British menus. Now an innovative Pembrokeshire group is leading a renaissance rooted in Welsh history

From the surfing beach of Freshwater West, Pembrokeshire, it is just a short walk to a small restored hut that stands alone on the southern cliff, where local forager, chef and entrepreneur Jonathan Williams gazes down at the rocks below.

It's part of the Welsh DNA, like rugby and male voice choirs," says Williams. It's packed with flavour, it's 40% protein, healthy, it doesn't take up land or require fresh water and it grows at a phenomenal rate. We should be shouting about it."