Experience time-honoured hospitality at the Innsville on Highway 8
I've lost count of how often it's been suggested that I visit The Innsville. The truth is, I have never dined there. It was time. One could be astonished that it still exists, having been founded in 1932 by Madeleine and Gus Kopoulos, and operated by the family until about 1991.
Current owner Bob Hemberger took over in 1995/96. At that time The Innsville, on Highway 8, had been closed for four years. Hemberger who had owned restaurants since 1979 had closed his John Doe eatery, also on Highway 8. After catering for a few years, he purchased The Innsville and began a new chapter for him and diners.
The Highway 8 location is no accident. It was the main Niagara Peninsula travel route, given that QEW construction only began in the 1930s. Wikipedia states that it was not until 1940 that the last 58 km. were paved, completing the four-lane highway between Hamilton and Niagara Falls." Highway 8 would have offered gas stations, and food services often connected to an inn - and indeed next to The Innsville some accommodation remains where the original A-frames and outhouses had served as a travel rest stop.
In case you haven't guessed, there is some time travel going on here. While nicely maintained, the decor and menu have some retro/classic touches. The dining room is bright white with dark accents. The pub leans more toward a cosy woodgrain, comfy chair vibe. There is a banquet room, a patio and takeout and catering.
With seafood and red meat as the focus, we were aiming to have seafood appetizers. The Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail with cocktail sauce was presented in time-honoured form and was a good start to the meal.
We'd planned to order scallops, but these were unavailable. Keeping with the seafood appetizer plan we ought to have opted for coconut shrimp or crab cakes. Instead, we went with the Prime Rib Sliders - on brioche buns with a side of horseradish Dijon aioli and au jus. These were delish. The prime rib was shaved contributing to tender mouthfuls. I'd be happy to have those sliders any day.
In my post-dining chat with Hemberger, I learned that I missed out by not trying their most popular menu item, the Festive Salad. This signature salad combines romaine, Swiss cheese, cranberries, apples and pears with Innsville's own sweet and sour dressing - which they hope soon to bottle and sell.
My main was once again prime rib, the staple of many brunch buffets that we all used to enjoy pre-pandemic. I toyed with the idea of having filet mignon, or ribs, even liver, but our server talked us into the prime rib which is, after all, their house specialty - slow roasted to preserve the meat's natural juices." Their wait staff, by the way, are mature and experienced, offering professional service.
The mains come with hot crusty bread, fresh vegetables, and a choice of potato (baked, roasted garlic mashed, fresh-cut fries) or rice pilaf. The bun was indeed crusty and piping hot. The carrots, zucchini and broccoli were colourful and perfectly steamed, unadorned by butter or a sauce. Here's where the salt and pepper shakers came in handy and having these on the table was itself a fond reminder of restaurant traditions.
My dining partner enjoyed the Surf n' Turf - combing a 6 oz. Cuban Lobster Tail with a choice of steaks - we went with the 8 oz. Sirloin. Hemberger shared his tip that his choice would have been the Prime Rib steak.
The menu is much more than steak and seafood. There is chicken and pasta. The pub side includes sandwiches, fish and chips, burgers, ribs and wings. The children's menu offers cotton candy as a dessert treat.
There are times when there's no room left for dessert. So it was, despite eight tempting choices including classics like sticky toffee pudding, Key lime pie, and creme brulee. We might have gone with peach pie, or the hot fudge sundae for fun.
Hemberger reports that takeout, which they had not done before the pandemic, has been going very well. The Grandma's Dinner Kit" offers dinner rolls, roast beef, gravy, roasted potatoes, and vegetables in two or four serving sizes.
Many of their events are resuming. Popular is Beatles, Burgers and Beer" and Murder Mystery Night." The Innsville has won many Readers' Choice Awards, as well as receiving a Legacy Award at the 2016 Stoney Creek Chamber of Commerce Citizen of the Year event.
Hemberger has a mission: I don't want to be the high-end steak house. I want to be for the regular guy who can go out and have a nice dinner without going into hock." He is a great conversationalist, running events and sometimes still working in the kitchen. I love it. This is my life."
Diane Galambos is a food writer who shares stories and recipes at her blog kitchenbliss.ca. Follow her on Instagram https://instagram.com/kitchenblissca
The Innsville
1143 Highway 8, Stoney Creek
905-643-1244
Hours: Sunday to Wednesday 11:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.; Thursday to Saturday 11:30 to 12:00 a.m.
What I paid: Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail (4 pieces) $11.29; Prime Rib Sliders (3 portions) $17.49; Prime Rib of Beef Au Jus (English Cut) $29.95; Innsville Surf N' Turf - 6oz. Cuban Lobster Tail with 8oz. Sirloin Steak $44.95
Wheelchair access: Yes