Surf, scones… but no homes: the battle for the soul of Cornwall

Young locals live in tiny cabins while rich tourists flaunt their Range Rovers. Yet there's more to the picture in a county at the vanguard of new technologies

It's the last day of free parking at Porthtowan beach on Cornwall's wild Atlantic coast before the summer charging season begins. Plenty of people are making the most of the sunny but cold day. The steep hills surrounding the cove are bright yellow with gorse in full bloom, framing the brilliant turquoise sea against the cobalt sky.

The wind is up, and white-peaked waves roar on to the sand and cliffs. There are some holidaymakers around, with children bundled up in hats and gloves along with buckets and spades - but most are locals enjoying this quieter time before the tourist season kicks off once again.