Who would’ve thought booking a table would require superhuman strength | Rachel Cooke

In New York, reservation scalpers' are making $80,000 a year, but I'm banking on a neighbour's generosity

The land of restaurants is increasingly paradoxical. Every day, good ones close. Running costs are punitive and broke customers are eating at home more often. Yet still there are places where it's next to impossible to bag a table; where to have even the remotest chance of doing so requires near superhuman levels of patience and determination, as well as no other demands whatsoever on your time - including paid employment.

I laughed when I read in the New Yorker's annual food issue of the reservation scalpers" who make $80,000 a year by hoarding bookings to then sell them on to the desperate-to-be-there rich. Only in Manhattan, I thought. But this didn't stop me. Just moments later, I was urging my neighbour, Sue, who is to restaurants what Harry Houdini once was to padlocks and straitjackets - just you watch her bust her way in! - to try to get us a table atX (I won't say its name, for obvious reasons). Sue is also a hoarder of reservations, with the key difference that she then shares them with (Iflatter myself) beloved friends at no extra charge. So now we're on tenterhooks, waiting and hoping - and hoping and waiting - for the hottest Sunday lunch in town.