Berlin feels like an island in a swamp of neofascism – but the flood waters are rising | Fatma Aydemir

I feel safe in the capital. An hour's drive away, white-pride tattoos remind me that we Berliners can't take our safe, hedonistic lives for granted any more

I live on an island. I tend to forget this, but now with the last days of summer still perfect for a swim, I decide to drive an hour out of Berlin to a lake - and I'm instantly reminded of it. The first things I notice: idyllic nature, clean air - and a lot of neo-Nazis. It's not even hard to recognise them: in many parts of eastern Germany they stroll around with a puffed-out chest and unambiguous symbols tattooed on their arms, printed on their shirts or stuck to their cars.

Of course, in Berlin we have neo-Nazis, too, but their presence is more subtle. It certainly gives you a greater sense of security when you are not constantly confronted with white-pride slogans and you are not the only person of colour in a 500-metre radius. You will always find someone in this island to make eye contact with. Outside, it's better if you don't.

Fatma Aydemir is a Berlin-based author, novelist, playwright and a Guardian Europe columnist

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