The hidden underwater eden of ‘California’s Galapagos’, where seals and grizzly bear-sized bass reign

On the remote Channel Islands, a draw for researchers and divers, preservation has transformed the ecosystem

Just 14 miles (23km) off the southern California coast lies a vast underwater paradise.

Giant sea bass the size of grizzly bears and schools of sardines glide together through swirling strands of golden kelp, whose long stalks preside over a world exploding with life and color. Playful harbor seals dance into the depths of undulating pink, green and orange plants, alongside spiny crustaceans and vibrant sea stars that embrace the volcanic rock that slopes to the sandy seafloor.