'Rock stars of American cheese': the enduring legacy of Cowgirl Creamery

Over the course of two decades, Sue Conley and Peggy Smith created a beloved California brand - and helped redefine our relationship to food

When Sue Conley and Peggy Smith announced their retirement last month from Cowgirl Creamery - the cheese company they grew from plucky startup to leader in the modern farm-to-table movement - the tributes came in thick and fast.

To their devoted followers, this was no surprise.