The 20 best cheese recipes

From Simon Hopkinson's classic roquefort salad to Meera Sodha's paneer butter masala, this versatile ingredient is given a starring role

The first thing I ever cooked". When Mum let us grate cheddar on to day-old bread. Eyes level with the electric grill. Watching the alchemy, seeing the cheese become molten, stringy. The early magic of making your own tea. I still crave Jeremy Lee's cheese straws, and now I can bake my own. Chef Tim Siadatan has shared Padella's perfect pici cacio e pepe, Alex Jackson his brilliant aligot. Simon Hopkinson offers his elegant roquefort salad, Tomos Parry his famous cheesecake. We have Marcella Hazan's definitive parmesan risotto and Kitty Travers's ricotta ice-cream. Plus, of course, the ultimate toastie. All the cheese pleasers. From OFM to you.